Europe is a wonderful continent and as much as I heavily enjoy intercontinental travel, I really appreciate the diversity that my continent has to offer. Grass will always be greener on the other side, however as I get older I begin to see just how rich Europe really is. This may seem really obvious but I think when you're surrounded by such history on the daily basis, you often forget that it's there. The tropics have always been a #1 but this time I want to take you with my on my cityscape to Lisbon, Portugal. This was my first time there and after a week spent in this unique country I really fell in love.
Portugal has always been on my 'bucket list', even though I don't like bucket lists and the only thing that's on mine is to ride a barrel wave (one day). The people are friendly, beaches & waves amazing and the food simply irresistible. After making plans with my friend Alex from the Netherlands, we ventured West to discover this fairy-tale like city.
I believe that every traveller has their own way of exploring a city - we all have different interests and as much some things "must be seen", we weave our own way into understanding the ethos of each metropolis. This is exactly how I decided to approach Lisbon. There were definitely a couple of places I had to see such as Castello de Sao Jorge which gave a magnificent view of the city or try the iconic Pasteis with a good coffee in Belem.. Nevertheless, I left some time to simply "wonder" and get lost in between the winding streets of this pretty city.
All my accomodaton was arranged via booking.com and the places I booked were Guesthouses. Lisbon's guesthouses are rooms (sometimes with shared bathrooms) that are usually spread within one or a few floors - I guess it is a little bit like an classic British B&B - you still have the cosy, homey feel with a nice breakfast minus the hotel hustle. What more, it's a great option if you don't want to overspend on accommodation when travelling to Lisbon. Alex and I decided to book three different guest houses Casa d'Avilla, City Lofts Lisbon and Casa Amora. All of which were situated in different parts of the city - this is definitely something I would advise as you get to explore various parts in more detail. Even though Lisbon is not a huge city it was nice to change where we stayed.
Uber operates throughout Lisbon and as the city isn't big it is quite cheap, however the Viva Viagem Zapping card is a great way of getting round the city and in between Sintra and Belem. It works just like an oyster card that you have to top up - I really recommend on getting one the minute you get there, as it works on trains, trams and buses.
Below I have arranged various sections for you depending what you're looking to do in Lisbon. By no means and I an expert nor have I included all spots - this is just a selection of some of the places and things I did when I was there. I thought it might be a handy insight if it's you're first time in the city. Without further ado then, let's go..
STAY
As I mentioned above, we stayed at various guest houses throughout out trip. We booked all of them via booking.com. Each one was very different and located in a slightly different part of the city. The hosts have been friendly and welcoming, which made us feel like we were home. What more, all of the breakfasts really exceeded our expectations- especially the one at Casa Amora.
Chalet D'Avila Guest House Av. Duque de Avila 69
This was our first place where we stayed in Lisbon. This guest house stretched across many floors with plenty of rooms. Like in the majority of Lisbon's guest houses the bathroom was shared. However, I want to note that everything was super clean and it definitely wasn't a nuisance The breakfast buffet was so vast with plenty of choices and the most important thing - extremely cute! This spot is located a little up from the centre so you'll have to do a 20-25min walk to reach the river, whereas the bus stops just around the corner.
City Lofts Lisbon Calcado do Marques de Abrantes 40
The location of this place was just ideal! Very central and just a 5min walk from the train station - it's a great place to stay if you are keen to make day trips. Yet again a shared bathroom but I have to say that everything was super clean and the breakfast was satisfactory. Unfortunately, I didn't take photos of the interior, however the decor was modern and clean.
Casa Amora R. Joao Penha 13
Best till last - and this was definitely the case with this guest house (no shared bathroom hooray!!) The minute I saw Casa Amora in the latest Conde Nast Traveller issue, I knew I just had to stay there. With its beautifully eclectic interior to home made pastries that are served at breakfast, I really loved this place. Yeah there's more - they had a home-made cookie jar, organic fruits and complementary port.
SEE
Lisbon is a cultural hot pot and there are plenty of activities that can satisfy even the pickiest of travellers. Here are my must go sees that often tend to end up high up on the lists of most visitors. The close vicinity of nearby towns as well as Lisbon's compact yet expansional nature as a city, means all of the places are easily reached be it by public transport or car.
Belem
Belem is a small UNESCO world heritage side town famous for it's creamy Pastais shop. Along with trying one of those you'll find a couple of interesting museums and a beautiful Jeronimos monastery that dominates this small town. We decided to walk along the riverside and afterwards went to check out the Jean Miro: Materiality and Metamorphosis exhibit that was taking place at Palacio National de Ajuda. Whenever I do city trips, I always like seeing current exhibits like this one, hence I really recommend checking out what's on before travelling to save time on researching when you're already there - you might be in for a surprise and see some unique pieces!
Cascais
Just a 30 minute cars drive from the centre of Lisbon will take you to the infamous Cascais, a small town that hosts surfing competitions and boasts beautiful beaches. It's a nice breather from the busier Lisbon (not that it felt suffocating in the off season) and a great place to chill out - Santini's ice cream should definitely be your pitstop before you'll lounge on the beach or take a surf lesson (C'mon!)
Castello de Sao Jorge
On our last day in the city we decided to go up and see this Moorish castle that overlooks the whole city. The view from here is absolutely astonishing - can't think of anything better than taking a glass red wine and admiring Lisbon as the sun sets over it. You really get to see the architectural diversity of this city as well as it's compact aesthetics. The arabic influences can be clearly seen in the way Lisbon has been built, which only reinforces it's diverse cultural history. As you go up to the castle you'll find plenty of street art along the way - Lisbon is filled with it so make sure to take some of it home with you on a couple of photographs.
Pena Palace & Sintra
This recently opened Palace has been causing quite a stir for both Portuguese and foreign tourists. Situated among the heels of the small town of Sintra (just a 30 min train ride from Lisbon) this magical, fairy tale - like 'castle' is worth the visit out of town. The mix of various colours with the sparkly tiles is definitely something I have not seen before in any palace. You can explore the interior as well as the rich gardens that spawn around the palace. This will definitely take a couple of hours hence it might be a good idea to plan a lunch in town. The Initiation Well at Quinta de Regaleira that echoes Alice's trip down the rabbit hole is another gem. We didn't end up going as we found out too late about it, but it is on my list next time when I'll be back in Lisbon. It also reminds me of the hoel in the ground Bane scene from Batman - it's pretty bad ass. Naturally, I didn't have any photos of my own so give it a good google. Definitely take a whole day to explore all of Sintra and it's hidden attractions. You can get a daily bus ticket for 5euro which will take you to all of these places from the train station where you'll arrive. All of the attractions are not close and the area is very hilly so it's worth taking this bus.
EAT
It is really hard to find a place that serves up bad food in Lisbon. The fish is fresh everywhere and prices are generally fair. In the end, it's your call to choose the vibe you want to go for and the price tag. I am an absolute sea food fiend hence Lisbon food wise was ideal for me. I don't think I ate anything bad whilst I was there! Nonetheless, I have gathered a couple of spots that I tried and really recommend for you to check out if you're not sure which restaurant to go for. The choice in Lisbon is vast but here are my personally curated favourites.
Cervejaria Ramiro Av. Almirante Reis no. 1
If you'll ask where to eat in Lisbon, you'll definitely hear this name. A classic style Cervejaria that has a natural 'time travelling' feel to it. Garlic shrimps taste just different here, along with every other seafood offered by this legendary restaurant. Even though it's a casual place, you're bound to bump into someone known, however be prepared to spend a minimum of 30-40 euros per head - a little more than the average in Lisbon. I don't need to tell you - of course, it's worth it!
A Cevicheria R. Dom Pedro V 129
We walked past this restaurant on the daily basis as we made our way into town. With its huge octopus tentacles that dominate the interior, it definitely caught my eye. Therefore on my last eve before flying back to Warsaw, I decided to check in for a ceviche and a glass of wine. In the end, I ended up trying their octopus with squid ink puree - it was the bomb. With the correctly paired wine, I thought that this was a perfect way to salute and say until next time to this beautiful city.
Pistola y Corazon Rua da Boavista 16
Tacos or Tequila? You can't make me choose. If the name wasn't enough, this is lively Mexican taqueria is just too cool. Not only because of the inviting decor but the atmosphere is just on point, service is fast and their signature cocktails too good to stop on just one. Definitely try one of their special tacos with shrimps and fish - they are sizeable so order as you eat and don't overestimate your capabilities. Unfortunately, they don't do bookings so just make sure to get there earlier in order to avoid the wait, even though it doesn't tend to be too long.
Pizzeria Luzzo R. de Santa Marta 37A-C
Even if you're travelling a good pizzeria is always a great option and this down to earth one serves up a really good one. Their pizzas really have original combinations of ingredients and we were excited to try those. The dough is delicious - I would definitely try their margherita just to taste it.
The Decadente R. Sao Pedro de Alcantara
Recommended by a local friend, the Decadante is a really lively restaurant with a youthful feel to it. Come here for dinner and take loads of different appetizers to share, which is exactly what we did. That way you're not stuck for choice and can just nibble until you're full. Whether it's a fish ceviche or an octopus salad - we were amazed. If you're not too into fish their other dishes looked very good too and not only in the menu. Also, their chocolate fondant should definitely be your desert choice - we definitely do not regret eating it!
COFFEE
Bettina & Niccolo Corallo Rua da Escola Politecnica 4
The minute I walked in, I knew I would be sipping on the best espresso in town. This small coffee and chocolate shop is a dream for any caffeine addict. The high quality coffee juts speaks for itself and the coco is also used to produce delicious chocolate options that you'll find displayed on the counter. Their brownie is a dream but make sure to buy some fresh coffee for home like I did. They can grind it for or just give you a pack of unground beans. I also stocked up on their chocolate - the rich taste is to die for!
My Mothers Daughter Largo de Sao Sebatiao da Pedreira 49
Situated a little up from the centre is this adorable vegan restaurant. We had a delicious almond latte here one day before venturing down into town. The decor is so beautiful and their home made cakes are not only cute but super tasty. I didn't eat there for lunch but the healthy selection on the menu looked highly appetizing. Aren't their ceramic cups just adorable?
Dear Breakfast R. Gaivotas 17
If you fancy sipping on a good coffee in an ultra - instagrammable interior this is your place. Dear Breakfast is a sizeable restaurant that serves smoothies, acai bowls, eggs benedict and various other options that you can devour for a delicious brunch. It's hidden away in a small side street and doesn't feel overpacked like some of the other hotspot cafes. With tasty coffee, good food and chilled atmosphere this is the spot to be in town.
Fabrika Coffee Roasters Rua das Portas de Santo Antao
This was one of the places recommended for a good coffee in Lisbon, so we gave it a shot - we were not disappointed. With their outdoor section you can carefully people watch whilst sipping on a latte - make sure to try their home made cakes, flapjacks and breads - so good! Fabrika is another place where you can buy high quality coffee.
EXPERIENCE
Mercado de Riberia "Time Out Market"
I'm definitely not the first, nor the last who will tell you to go there if you're in Lisbon. Hugely promoted and definitely among the favourites of tourists. This big market is great if you just can't decide where or what you want to eat. With plenty of food to choose from - be it savoury or sweet. The now renamed "Time Out" market really has it all. Grab a quick drink with a bite to eat and enjoy the buzzing atmosphere.
LX Factory
A large complex of shops and restaurants with an industrial backdrop under 25 the Abril Bridge. Yet again worth exploring, whether it's for an evenings drink or a spot of lunch, the LX won't have you stuck for choice. Unfortunately as it is a highly recommended spot waiting times may be a little longer at restaurants and cafes - in peak season definitely try to book ahead.
Feira da Ladra Flee market
Our guest house land lady really encouraged us to visit this infamous flee market. On every Tuesday and Saturday all of the merchants take over the square in Feira da Ladre - a beautiful old part of the city right behind the Panteo Nacional (Church of Santa Engarcia) which you should definitely take a look at. Normal shops in the area take advantage of the affair and you'll find plenty of vintage, ceramics and antiquities stores with really unique finds. The hustle is abundant so make sure to keep your belongings safe as pick-pocketers may be around.
Bars in Bairro Alto
Yeah, everyone says to hang at Bairro Alto - so indeed we did. As it wasn't high season and we spent most of the eves sipping delicious portugese wines at various restaurants we didn't bar crawl too much. If you're in a big group looking for a place to drink, you'll find plenty of small bars and restaurants scattered among the streets of this district - the options are endless, explore them all!
DRINK
With good wine in abundance within a short walk of anywhere, Lisbon is the city of drinking. From fancy roof tops to low key bars hidden among the winding streets of Bairro Alto, the city boasts with plenty of spots to have a good drink. However, I'm sure this aspect of a city trip does't require much convincing to most of you.
Park Calcada do Combro 58
Situated on the roof of a parking garage this hidden bar is definitely a treasure. With it's magnificent view of the city, you really get the essence of urban Lisbon. It's outdoor section is very floral and tropical as it blends into the urban landscape. House and R&B dominate the scene, as the laid back vibe continues late into the night.
Pensao de Amor R. de Alecrim 19
The sailors may not stop at this old brothel anymore but with it's rich hedonist history, this bar continues to attract plenty of guests. Draping burgundy curtains and scattered paintings echo the past as the bar buzzes. Located just off the infamous pink street, you may think you've entered the wrong door but keeping going up the small steps, to find a bar with a dance floor that is always packed on the weekend. They serve up really good cocktails, so definitely try those when there.
Lost in Esplanada Bar R. Dom Pedro V no. 56-D
Unfortunately this rooftop was closed for renovation when we went (off season perks) but it was my number one on the list. The vision of sipping a sangria along with a great view of the city was just too idyllic. I will definitely come back here next time I'm in town. It is known as the more quieter spot in town so it's ideal for a chilled eves drink.
Topo Commercial Centre Martim Moniz
With its city views this bar & restaurant chain really is great for a drink with a view. It is thoroughly recommended in many tourist guides hence they have three locations spread throughout Lisbon: one among the roof of Martim Moniz shopping centre, one in Belem and one in Chiado.
BUY
Naturally Av. de Liberatade along with the city centre is where you'll find plenty of stores ranging from exclusive designer shops like Gucci to high street classics such as Zara. However most of these shops you'll find back home. Hence here is a couple of my favourite stores that I believe are worth taking a look at especially when you're in Lisbon, as you won't find these anywhere else.
Cortico & Netos Calcada de Santo Andre 66
A tile classic - the best tile store in town. You're in Lisbon so going into a tile shop is a must. This little close store is a great place if you are planning on decorating and really want something special for your home.
A Fabrica dos Chapeus R. da Rosa
A Fabrica dos Chapeus R. da Rosa
Hats are a big thing at the moment, but according to A Farica de Chapeus they never left. What a better way to embrace the fashion than explore this legendary, family run hat shop. They have three stores in Lisbon and sell most of the classic shape hats. I really recommend checking it out as the level of craftsmanship put into their pieces is sky high, what more they also do custom projects. Personally, I loved this burgundy one.
Fora Sunglasses Av. Alvares Cabral 28A
The minute I saw this sunglasses shop, I knew I would love what they have in store. Classic and stylish designs with Zeiss lenses can only be a winner. All made here, in Lisbon - in store. Open to customisable options, this high quality sunglasses shop should definitely be on your list if you're looking for a fresh pair.
Impasse R. Sao Jose 9
It is no use denying - I am a bit of a hypbeast at heart and this store was exactly what I was looking for in Lisbon. Hidden just a road down from Av. the Liberatade you'll find this tastefully designed multi-brand streetwear concept store. Kicks, hoodies and hats - they have it all, along with their own Impasse brand that has some killer designs.
Vintage stores on R. Sao Jose
Just up the road from Impasse you'll find quite a few vintage stores to your right. I really recommend going in and taking a peek, as the treasures you can find inside are totally worth it! Many of these have a lot of vintage designer pieces for incredible prices along with some classic vintage store finds. Sellers are usually open to haggling, within reason.
If you're still looking for more inspiration make sure to browse Suitcase website. Their site as well as printed quarterly mag is a great source of ideas and inspirations for travel around the world.
Thanks for reading. I hope you'll find Lisbon as enchanting as I did, enjoy!
